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Horse won’t let me pick his feet (sort of)?
My horse has decided that its hilarious to try to bite me in the ass every time I go down to pick his feet. Then I have to turn around and push his head away, and I have to drop his foot. He never lets up, to the point where I have to get somebody to hold his head. After that, he’s fine.
He never displays this kind of behaviour anywhere else, but he’s going through a phase where he’s testing all of his limits (he’s 4)
Any ideas how I discourage it? It’s hard to concentrate on picking his feet and pushing his head away at the same time, especially when my back’s turned to his head.
Nooo, trust me, no joint issues here. He’s just being a jerk.I see two issues. One, he hasn’t learned to respect your space and stay out of it even when your back is facing him. The other is that he hasn’t learned to never bite. I would first address the issue of respecting your space.
I do extensive ground work on the spacial respect issue. I use a rope halter and long lead when I work on this….8 to 10 foot long lead. If the horse enters within an area of about 3 feet surrounding me without being invited, he is shaken back away. Using a rope halter with loop attached lead means no metal parts to hit him in the face if I vigorously shake the lead at him. I leave about 2 or 3 feet of lead between my hand and the halter, and shake it at his chest to back him away. When I lead with my back to the horse, if he tries to creep into my space he is immediately corrected and shaken back. You want him to know never to enter your space, even with your back to him, unless you invite him to come closer. If he acts up when you shake him back, you can “lunge” him in circles around you if needed until he settles. This is one reason why the long lead is used.
Any time the horse attempts to nose, nuzzle, or nip at you, shake him away until he is at least 3 feet back. Shake the lead right at his chest, and use the end of the lead shaken at him with your other hand to reinforce it. Don’t hit him…..just shake it at him until he backs to the end of it.
I routinely do an exercise where I loop the lead around his body feeding from the halter, along one side . above his hocks, and fed back along the other side to my hand. By gradually shortening the lead, it forces the horse to turn away from you, do a full circle, and wind up facing you again. This teaches him that you can make him do this anytime you wish. It also supples him. When you work on his hooves, you can use this same principle to react when he attempts to nuzzle or bite at you. Feed the lead around his offside, over the wither, to your hand, and pick up a hoof. If the horse goes to bite, you can shorten the lead, which will force his nose to the offside. It is best not to allow him to drop the hoof when you do this, so don’t pull him so far around that he goes off balance. You just want him to know that you are in control of where his nose goes.
I suggest you practice this out in the arena as part of your ground training, and not in the barn aisle.As for biting, I never hand feed a horse in training. Treats are put into a bucket and fed that way. I’ll carry a screw between my fingers and let a biter hit it when he goes to bite….I don’t want to make him head shy, so I don’t hit at the horse. I just let him “run into it” when he comes toward me. But this should always be combined with your training to respect your space. The horses I train won’t come within three feet of anyone unless they are invited to do so, not even small children. Even when they are fed favorite treats, they back off until the bucket is set down for them and when the human backs away, they know it is okay to come forward to eat the treat. They didn’t just do this on their own. They were trained to act this way. It isn’t hard to train this, but it does take consistent, patient training.
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